“So, why Antarctica?” a fellow passenger asked us one night at dinner.
This isn’t a question I expected to be asked by someone else who chose to spend their Christmas vacation on a ship exploring Antarctica.
Mark Twain said it best,
“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”
Ushuaia
Our voyage to Antarctica began on December 21st at 6PM as we left the docks from Ushuaia, Argentina. Google Map
Ushuaia is a beautiful little area located on Tierra del Fuego and considered to be the world’s most southern city. This harbor city looks as though it has been taken from a Norwegian travel magazine’s page. The wooden homes are cheerfully painted in bright colors with snow capped mountains providing a backdrop. Before boarding our ship we enjoyed browsing in shops tailored around the transient tourism traffic and sipping some tea at the local pubs. Like in most of Argentina, the main dish in Ushuaia is beef steak, but we decided to save that pleasure for our return and opted for a hamburger Argentina style. Argentineans prefer adding a fried egg, cheese slice, and ham to this popular American dish.
Setting Sail
Even though air travel has lost the excitement it once held, sea travel still holds a little romance. Once we cleared customs and enjoyed a short walk down the dock, we were greeted at the gangplank with a hearty, “Welcome aboard.” Our home for the next ten days was aboard the Ocean Nova. Information on the Ocean Nova
In the harbor, our good ship looked liked a small toy, but its small size would allow us to travel between icebergs and explore deeper into Antarctica. Our vessel was built in 1992, but was refurbished in 2006 with a glass-enclosed observation lounge on the top deck. The lounge provided everyone a place to relax and a perfect location to receive our daily briefings. When the seas were rough, Jim and I found the lounge to be great for inducing sea sickness, but in calmer waters it was a good place to enjoy the spectacular panoramic views it afforded.
Once everyone was aboard, the ropes were untied, the anchor weighed, and we were sailing through the Beagle Channel towards the open ocean. A crew member mentioned this evening would be the last complete dark night we would experience before we returned nine days later.
The Drake Passage
Before leaving on the trip it never occurred to me to check out the travails involved in crossing the Drake Passage from South America to Antarctica, but at dinner that night I soon discovered this topic was the main conversation point. As we later learned from our captain, the Drake Passage is capable of having hurricane proportion waves and wind. On one particular voyage the previous year, the waves crested at 100 feet high and for their safety the entire crew along with all the passengers were commanded to remain in their cabins. Even though many on our trip wanted such a nautical adventure to add to their travel war stories, I was very happy that it did not come to pass.
You Tube video on the Drake Passage
The Drake Passage is named for Sir Francis Drake who in 1577 lead only the second expledition to circumnavigate the world. The weather in the Drake is formed by the cool, humid, sub-polar conditions from Tierra del Fuego mixing with the frigid, polar Antarctic conditions.
It took over 48 hours to cross the Drake Passage. Along the way each voyage member was given a bright yellow parka with the tour company’s name, Quark, and their logo emblazoned on the front. These heavy jackets were to be used for our daily excursions once we reached Antarctica. We brought our own different color outer gear which made it easy for us to identify each other in the golden horde. When everyone was walking around with their identical yellow parkas, we coined the term “Quark Penguins” to describe them.
We were also issued some rubber boots. These knee-high rubber boots served several purposes. First, they helped keep you dry when making wet landings from the Zodiac rafts on the shore which entailed debarking in the water to wade ashore a short distance. They also kept your trousers from getting wet. Also, to preserve Antarctica’s pristine condition and prevent spreading any invasive infections on the boat, these boots were thoroughly cleaned. Upon re-entering the ship, each client and guide were required to step into a soapy solution which had a brush attached to clean from the boots all the accumulated penguin guano and move into a required rinse soak tub.
South Shetland Islands
Close to 6:00pm on the third day we finally heard the announcement on the speaker “Land Ho” as we first sighted land. We had reached the South Shetland Islands. Google Map
We were told by the exhibition leader we were fortunate to have good winds at our back which decreased our passage time. With the extra time, the guides announced after dinner they would take us on our first landing at Barrientos Island. After two days on a rolling sea, I was more than happy to know I would soon be putting my feet back on solid ground.There are eleven main islands comprising the South Shetland Islands. One of my biggest surprises on the trip was each location’s uniqueness. I expected everywhere to look almost the same; black and white with lots of rocks, snow, and ice. The South Shetland Islands shattered those preconceived notions. These islands have the warmest and wettest climate in Antarctica which helps to explain all their green moss and algae. Because their climate is relatively mild in Antarctic terms, these islands were used in extensive sealing operations in the 1820s and later from 1910-1931 for whaling. So, it is very common to see old, dilapidated, wooden whaling boats in ruins along their coastline.
The LandingsThe most difficult part to going ashore is getting ready. We would wait in our cabins for the speaker announcement that the Zodiac inflatable boats were ready. Then, it was all about timing. We would put on our additional 2-3 clothing layers, rain pants, parka, hat, mittens and scarf, and last but not least, a personal flotation device before putting on my camera bag. Then, feeling like the Michelin Man, I would waddle down to the lower deck carrying my boots (we were asked to not wear our boots in the hall to prevent the floors from being worn and soiled). When we timed our departure correctly we only had to wait a few minutes to board a Zodiac. When we did not, we had to wait in line over heating from all the cold weather gear we were wearing. Each Zodiac holds around ten passengers and once loaded would only take a few minutes to reach the shore.
The Penguins
When I returned home, the first thing everyone asked was “Did you see any penguins?” My set reply is “Only about half a million.” Even though we saw seals, sea birds, and whales on our voyage, penguins were the most numerous species we encountered.
Just as polar bears are only found in the Arctic, penguins are only found in the Antarctic. Scientist’s believe penguins are in the Antarctic simply because it has no land-based predators. . So, penguin chicks have a greater chance to reach adulthood here.
We were there during the nesting season. A few baby chicks were just beginning to hatch. I don't claim to be an avid bird watcher, but these birds are very fun to watch. Between their constant waddling, stealing rocks from other nests, and loud calls, they were the trip’s comic relief.
We were always told to stay at least five meters from any nest and penguins always had the right of way. However, the penguins did not quite grasp the five meter no-contact zone and often approached right up to you. Since no single country owns it, Antarctica's official population is Zero and there are only very few people as seasonal researchers inhabiting its vastness. So, penguins have no innate aversion or fear for humans. They are very curious to see other larger creatures and will waddle right up to check you out. Once they’ve had their curiosity fulfilled, they simply waddle off to where ever they are headed.
Penguins live in the water, but come ashore to mate and give birth. The penguins do not just reside on the shoreline. They are hearty little creatures who walk several hundred meters away from and a long way above the shoreline to find exposed rock to make their colonies. Penguins typically establish dense colonies on any snow and ice-free slopes on islands and the peninsula. Competition for nesting sites can be fierce and the older more dominant birds tend to stake nests in the colony’s middle where they are better protected from marauding skuas who are large birds who swoop in to steal eggs and snatch hatchlings.
On their way to and from the ocean, each colony carves their own little super highways in the snow moving from the nest to sea and back. The paths are so well worn they are like little trenches, so at times you can only see the penguin’s upper half as it moves.
There are seventeen kinds of penguins. We mainly saw three different penguins: Chinstrap, Gentoo, and Adelie. On our first outing, a single Macaroni penguin was nestled in with a large chinstrap colony. The Macaroni penguin acquired its name because it has striking yellow-orange tassels originating in a broad band across its forehead meeting right between their eyes. Although Macaroni penguins are the most abundant in the world, we only saw a few in different places.
After the Macaroni penguin, the Chinstrap penguin is the second most abundant penguin. They are mainly concentrated in vast colonies along the coasts on the South Orkneys, South Shetlands, and South Sandwich Islands. Penguins in this species are easily recognized by the narrow black feather band which extends from ear to ear just below the chin and cheeks resembling a "chinstrap", hence their name.
The most common penguin we saw was the Gentoo penguin. This makes sense because the Gentoo has the widest distribution range from all the penguins, but their most significant populations are concentrated on the Antarctic Peninsula and sub-Antarctic islands where we visited. Gentoos are larger than the Adelie and Chinstrap species and are distinguished by conspicuous white patches behind their eyes
The small Adelie penguin is the world’s most Southern nesting bird and are the smallest penguins in the Antarctic. The Adelie penguin is the stereotypical penguin. With its white 'tuxedo shirt' front, and the white ring around its very blue eyes, this bird has a handsome, yet comical appearance. Named after the wife of the French explorer Admiral Durmont d' Urville, the Adelie is also the most commonly studied of all the penguin species. In winter, Adelies stay at sea, resting in groups on pack ice and icebergs.
For a really neat video showing how clever penguins are, check out this video on You Tube called One Lucky Penguin
Deception Island
Jim and I both had our own favorite locations on the trip, but Deception Island was a mutual favorite.
Deception Island is the largest of the South Shetland Islands and possibly the most incredible island on the planet. It is one of the few places on Earth where vessels can sail directly into an active volcano. It’s most recent volcanic eruptions occurred in 1956, 1967, 1969, 1970, and 1992. The name comes from the fact that from a distance it appears to be an island with sheer cliff shores, but that is “deceiving” because upon closer inspection the island reveals a small opening into its safe harbor.
The natural harbor has been used since the 19th century as a protection from storms and icebergs as well as a whaling station in the early 20th century. At one time it was estimated 6,000 partly butchered, large, putrid cetaceans floated in the bay. Today it is a stop for most Antarctica trips. You can still wander among the old buildings and imagine what life must have been like here 100 years ago. As a photographer I felt like Ansel Adams exploring an Old West ghost town.
At times the volcanic activity can heat the water temperatures in the bay to as high as 70°C (158°F). In the 1920-1921 whaling season, volcanic activity in the caldera caused the ice cold sea water to boil which stripped the paint from the whaling ships’ hulls. However, the water was nowhere near that temperature during our visit.
During our visit, the gentle, wide volcanic beaches and calm harbor enabled the opportunity to take a “Polar Plunge”. So, Jim and 32 others enjoyed a once in a life time dip in the Antarctic waters. For you Seinfeld fans, Jim described this swimming adventure as “Extreme shrinkage”! Even though the ocean was very cold, it looked like all the swimmers had a great time. Everyone taking the “Polar Plunge” received a certificate from the expedition, but to you receive this honor, full immersion was required. Anyone who tried returning to shore without a wet head was commanded back into the frigid water to submerge fully before being allowed to come ashore where they were welcomed with a dry towel.
Christmas Day
To say we had a “White Christmas” is a little silly, but it truly was white as far as we could see at Neko Harbor. Google Map
This harbor is named after a whaling ship called the “Neko” which used this harbor in the early 20th century. The Antarctic peninsula is only 30 miles wide at this point. Our excursion at Neko included a short strenuous hike to a lovely view point. Once everyone reached the vantage point on the ridge, we sat quietly and listened to the glacier across the bay speak to us as it moved.
At that evening's debriefing, we were told the conditions were perfect to see some Orca whales. Right before we enjoyed our wonderful goose Christmas dinner, this prediction came true. Everyone grabbed their cameras and ran on deck hoping to get just a few shots before the small pod vanished.
Orcas are very intelligent sea mammals. They live and roam in pods and use their collective knowledge and skills to survive. This video from You Tube shows how orcas teach their young to hunt for seals in the Antarctic.
Christmas evening concluded with hot spice wine on our ship’s upper deck as a heavy snow began to fall. It was almost magical.
The Highlight
The next morning our expedition leader awoke us over the speaker with this announcement, “We have now entered expedition travel. The Ocean Nova is at its southern most point this season. We are lucky to have clear blue skies and calm water to enjoy the Penola Strait.”
We had just reached 66 degrees South latitude meaning we had ventured to almost 30 miles from the Antarctic Circle. Once we looked out the window it was as if we entered a new world. For the first time my spirit and senses really felt Antarctica. It is impossible not to have expectations and preconceived notions about a place you have seen pictures and read about since childhood. I now felt I found the Antarctica from my dreams. Snow peaked mountains adorned a harbor with dollops of snow everywhere you looked. It looked like a land built for a snow princess.
Roald Amundsen, the Norwegian who lead the first team to reach the South Pole, describes it best: Glittering white, shining blue, raven black in the light of the sun, the land looks like a fairy tale. Pinnacle after pinnacle, peak after peak-crevassed, wild as any land on our globe, it lies unseen and untrodden.
After breakfast we went on a Zodiac cruise to explore this magnificent land of snow and ice. As the Zodiacs moved around icebergs large enough to dwarf our ship and among all the ice flows, each Zodiac appeared lost inside its own world. As we navigated the ice filled ocean it was like we were with Star Trek’s Captain Kirk boldly going where no man has gone before. Our only contact with each Zodiac was the occasional chatter over the crew member’s radio. Our Captain Kirk was Aaron from New Zealand. His keen listening skills heard the very faint sound of a whale blowing to breathe in air. To our great wonder we soon found ourselves sharing this hostile environment with a minke whale up close and personal as it crossed under our Zodiac and surfaced several times within a few meters. Before returning to our ship we enjoyed watching some Adelie penguins resting on ice flows. With their short little bodies and ice blue eyes,
these little guys are just too cute for words
Camping
We were very lucky and the absolutely beautiful weather starting on December 26th stayed with us until we left the Antarctic. Not wanting to temp fate, the crew decided to take advantage of the beautiful weather and have us camp one day earlier than planned. Our camping spot was in the Argentine Islands located close to Vernadsky Station. Google Map
Maintaining research in Antarctica is expensive, so in February 1996 the British closed its Faraday Station which it maintained for almost 50 years. By international treaty Antarctica is a protected area, so to maintain its pristine environment, no man made objects or structures are allowed to remain in place. They must be dismantled and removed down to the very last nail leaving the environment completely natural.
To spare themselves a huge removal expense, the British Antarctic Survey sold their station to The Ukraine for a whopping $1 with the contract conditions stipulating the Ukrainians conduct the same research started and conducted there by the British. This is the station where scientists discovered the first hole in the Earth’s ozone layer.
Upon ownership transfer in 1996, the Ukrainians renamed it “Akademik Vernadsky Station” and the Ukrainian Ministry of Education and Science now owns and operates Vernadsky Station.
Prior to the 1996 handover, the British were going to build a new pier for their station. However, the year they planned to install it, the winter weather was so horrible, it was impossible to work outside to construct the pier. Instead of sitting around for six months with nothing to do, the station’s residents used the construction materials & tools to build a bar on the upper floor. Since then, Vernadsky Station has been home to "Antarctica’s best bar”.
Having visited it and imbibed the now obligatory vodka shot, I must state it is quite nice. Right next to Antarctica’s best bar is the “World’s Southernmost Gift Shop” which I can say I visited and have the photo to prove it. For a free vodka shot, female visitors are encouraged to take off and trade their bras to be tacked to the walls. There were quite a few brassieres tacked to the wall, so I guess some ladies really wanted a vodka shot.
Before we left we mailed ourselves a postcard from the outpost. We were told postcards are held until later in the Antarctic summer, then they are taken back to The Ukraine in a large batch before they begin making their way to addressees via the normal post. This delivery process was said to take 6 to 9 months. However, to our great surprise, the postcard arrived in just over a month. Evidenly, the Ukrainians improved their postal service.
After touring Vernadsky Station, the crew members located a very small island for us to camp for the evening. By the time we found our camp site and everyone erected their tents it was well after midnight, but the sun was just barely touching the horizon. Inside the tent there was still enough visibility to read a book easily without any artificial light. The guides provided all campers a sleeping pad and a sleeping bag, but most people found the camping to be a cold expereince and did not get much sleep. However, everyone was very thankful for the clear weather with no wind.
Final Stops
By the time we reached our last two major destinations, the trip already exceeded my highest expectations, but both Petermann Island and Port Lockroy greatly added to my enjoyment.
Port Lockroy was Jim’s second favorite place on the trip. This British Outpost was as cute as a British biscuit tin. The wooden structures are painted in chocolate brown with hot red outlining the window frames. Every structure was surrounded by Gentoo penguin colonies. I was almost surprised that we didn’t find a penguin nest on their porch as they nested on every other flat inch on the grounds. As we did at the Ukrainian station, we mailed a postcard to our home to see how long it takes the British mail to travel from Antarctica. (This postcard arrived one week before the one from Vernadsky Station which is amazing when it traveled almost 14,000 miles in barely four weeks!) Google Map Before we left this unforgettable location, our ship’s catering crew served a once in a life time barbeque on the upper deck to enjoy the warm sun, clear skies, spectacular scenery, and cerulean sea.
Petermann Island is located just below the narrow Lemaire Channel. I think it was the most picturesque place we visited in Antarctica. Huge panoramic granite peaks surround the area with giant icebergs reflecting sunlight providing various blue shades to the scenery. Visiting here on a such a sunny, warm day provided an incredible experience and made an indelible impression etched in my memory. Google Map
As we sailed back through the narrow Lemaire Channel most crew members and passengers were outside on the observation deck enjoying the view. Google Map The water was still perfectly reflecting the razor sharp peaks jutting straight out and above the water. The Lemaire Channel is one mile across at its widest and a half mile wide at its narrowest point. It was an unforgettable toast goodbye. Antarctica seemed to be sending us a loud and clear messsage not to forget its many natural treasures and unspoiled beauty.
Two days later and ten days after our initial departure, we landed back in Ushuaia with not only a greater understanding of, but also with a much deeper appreciation for the great Antarctic land at the bottom of the Earth.
To view my favorite Antarctica images, go to: http://www.ginalrodgers.com/travelgallery.htm
The Trip's Route
Antarctica Facts:
- Antarctica is 8.6 million square miles in size making it the Earth's 5th largest continent which is about the size of the United States and Mexico combined. - Antarctica comprises 10% of the Earth’s land surface.
- During the winter Antarctica's size doubles when sea ice forms extending its mass.
- 99% of Antarctica is permanent icecap, contains 90% of the Earth's ice, and 70% of the planet's fresh water.
- In some places the ice is over 3 miles deep (almost 16,000 feet thick).
- The icecap was formed by snow accumulation over 100,000 years.
- The largest Antarctic iceberg was larger than Belgium.
- It is the coldest place on Earth. The lowest temperature recorded is -128.6 F on 21 July 21, 1983. - 80% of the sun’s heat falling on the Antarctic icecap is reflected back into space.
- Antarctica is classified as a desert as it only receives 5 cm (2.5 inches) annual precipitation.
- Antarctica is the highest continent because of its thick ice layer. Its average height above sea level is 7,546 feet.
- Antarctica is the windiest continent. Its maximum recorded wind speed is 200 mph.
- There is no sun for 182 days during the winter.
- The official human population is Zero. In 1961 all countries claiming territory on the continent signed the Antarctic Treaty making it an official scientific research station.
- Its penguin population is estimated to be 75 million.
- 90% of all its wildlife live on the Antarctic Peninsula.
Posts
No comments:
Post a Comment